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The most common issue so far in terms of X-55 use in the wild seems to be ‘ghost buttons’ being pressed. Even though Saitek’s injection-moulder guy had ‘military-grade’ on his mind, the actual military for these flight controls have a pretty good vested interest in making the layouts decent to use, so go copy them.
#SAITEK X52 SOFTWARE CURVES HOW TO#
If at a complete loss on how to set it up, my general rule of thumb in a flight sim is to take a look at how the real aircraft had mapped things on the real-life physical stick/throttle and do my best to emulate it with what I have. With this sort of set-up I tend to veer towards setting up my own config, as the brain contortions to try to remember someone else’s favorite layout are often harder than just going through the pain of adding them bit by bit myself.
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Also, in programming via HUD you can ‘name’ each command, and then shuffle them around as needed, plus in the case of the DCS range, a lot of the common keys are the same, so it saves time doing it on the HOTAS programming side. Another advantage of programming the stick rather than setting up the sim, is that some sims won’t recognize ‘Button_312’, but will always recognize a key.
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The disadvantage of the latter is that it can be a pain to manage these profiles as sims update versions, so sometimes it is better to just ‘program the stick’ as that’s (apart from the ‘axis’, more on these later) it’s really just pushing pretend keyboard keys for you.
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The initial decision when setting up is if to use the ‘profile programming’ that comes with the device as a software/driver app or just bind those buttons in each individual flight sim. So, that would be like ‘Make a X-55 HUD DCS A10C Profile’ (or go download one online and then try to memorize it) or just configure inside of, say, DCS World, ‘Button_278’ to be ‘Release 3 Chaff at Rakish Angle’. Hopefully this set-up guide will cover some of the more sim-orientated scenarios. In terms of how to set it up, it’s quite an adventure and the documentation beyond ‘make it press a key’ is quite sparse. Thank you, to our silver foil-suited wearing brethren! Set-up Steps & Tips It takes some getting used to, but works well.Ī big part of the X-55’s success will be new Elite Dangerous and Star Citizen players bashing down doors to get a better control set-up, as less face it, $200 is nothing when you are happy to buy a $2000 spaceship-that-is-so-not-real-it’s-not-been-even-made-yet DLC.(*1). Having said that, it still all represents great value and complaining of too many switches that don’t operate like a device three times its cost seems churlish. In some ways this may be the real down-side with this HOTAS, in that sometimes it feels like it is meant to be looking more impressive than actually work impressively. The stick’s CMS toggle looks like a CMS toggle, but is actually a big grey dumb click button. The coolie hat (the lower 4-way grey blob next to the red button on the throttle) is a wee bit too small, and with large hands the chances of hitting ‘left’ rather than ‘up’ are about 5/4 outside odds. The mouse nipple is loose (the jokes are writing themselves) which can make slewing feel awkward and inaccurate sometimes. The switches on the throttle nestle right under your hand, and it feels like a rabid card trick gone right when you toggle one without looking at your hands. There are plenty of stick and throttle buttons, switches, rotaries and nipples to make you feel inadequate in a times of stress, although some of them are not exactly easy to reach in a rush. It has a convenient twist rudder control (many of its purchasers will be moving up from cheap sticks and not have pedals), interchangeable springs for tensions (you will get pinged in the face the first time you change one) and feels ‘substantial’ – not ‘Forever substantial’ but certainly ‘get through this calendar year substantial’. I quite like it, always keeping the cost in mind.

It’s a compromise between chicken-pecking around on a keyboard while you plummet into the ground and getting a second mortgage and/or ‘trial separation’ for something more chunkier and beefy, like the Thrustmaster Warthog. To quickly lurch into a car analogy, (dammit Frog, third paragraph and the car analogy already? Mudspike Editor) it’s not the Ford Pinto of the stick word, nor is it the twitchy or costly Mustang GT 500, but it’s still better than one of those pretend SUVs that just suck gas and explode on roads with anything more than ‘large gravel’.
